How an Automatic Watch Works: What You Need to Know

By Vincent Bergerat, Creative and Design Director

Reading time: 4 minutes

The first mechanical watches had to be wound regularly, otherwise they would stop, plunging their owners into total anguish, unable to answer that fundamental question: What time is it?

Then came those fantastic and mysterious little machines known as automatic watches*. Everything changed, and these self-winding watches, powered by the wearer's daily movements, continue to amaze us and fuel passionate conversations about the reliability of this or that movement, the ingenuity involved in creating a particular oscillating weight, and so on.

*The first automatic, "perpetual" watch dates back to the late 18th century and was created by A-L Bréguet.

Quartz watch vs. automatic watch

Since the 1970s, most watches have been quartz, with the most modern ones even ditching hands to show "always" accurate time. So, yes, quartz movements are generally more reliable, cheaper, and less bulky than automatic (mechanical) movements. But they require the assistance of a battery, which will need to be replaced, discarded, found, bought again – the magic has its limits.

In contrast, automatic movements appear all the more durable and embody values of craftsmanship, heritage, and artistic skill for the most sophisticated among them. An automatic watch is a touch of poetry and magic attached to your wrist.

Automatic winding, how does it work?

It all starts when you make a wrist or hand movement, such as typing this text on a computer keyboard, or drinking coffee (if, like me, the hand holding the cup is the same as the one wearing the watch, of course).

So, the movement of your wrist is transmitted to the oscillating weight – this becomes clear when the back of your watch is transparent, like our 1955 10 ATM.

This oscillating weight, or rotor, transmits the energy produced to the mainspring, and then through a series of gears to the hands and various indicators, such as day, date, etc. (that's another topic, complications, coming soon).

What is the oscillating weight?

As its name suggests, this semi-circular component responds to every movement and oscillates freely, 360°.

While each wrist movement breaks the oscillating weight's stillness and sets it in motion, to a greater or lesser extent, Earth's gravity exerts its pull on it, tending to restore its balance and stillness. In the meantime, energy will have accumulated in the mainspring.

Why do mechanical and automatic watches tick-tock?

The mainspring is the engine of the watch; it provides the energy necessary for the watch to function. This accumulated energy is transmitted to a gear train, but it must be regulated, which is the role of the escapement.

Scoop! The escapement is responsible for a watch's ticking sound. Now you know.

Power reserve.

When you take off your automatic watch – yes, it happens – it continues to run, gently.

For how long?

It all depends on its "power reserve", sometimes indicated in small letters on the dial. This power reserve varies depending on the model. Most of our automatic models offer a comfortable power reserve of 42 hours.

What happens after 42 hours?

Four solutions:

1. You lend your watch to someone trustworthy who will move around and wind it for you.

2. You manually wind your watch like a pro by turning the winding crown, a simple, almost ancestral gesture.

3. You get one of those incredible machines that will calmly and gently give your watch a little exercise and keep it alert and on time: an automatic watch winder.

4. You can also, like me, put it back on your wrist, on time, and it will start immediately!

Maintenance of an automatic watch.

This is where the quality of each component of your watch comes into play, the reliability of the movement, the way you use it; all these parameters determine its longevity – in short, few mysteries, only common sense is law.

Wear your watch regularly, store it away from dust and shocks when not wearing it (case or watch winder box for the more sophisticated among you), have it serviced every 3 to 5 years, or beyond, if its behavior worries you.

Kelton's after-sales service is there to advise you and, if necessary, repair your automatic watch.

Kelton and mechanical watchmaking: a heritage to wear every day.

From 1955, the year the brand was founded, all Kelton watches were mechanical or automatic. It's in the brand's DNA, and our current automatic watches naturally reconnect with this heritage.

By offering reliable and affordable automatic models, Kelton remains true to its history and to what made it successful for decades. Today, Kelton's automatic models are designed to be heirloom pieces. Our after-sales service is here and fulfills its mission, ensuring that for every tick-tock, and every stage of its life, the best solution is adopted for your watch.

Discover our selection of Kelton automatic watches.